NATURAL ZIRCON AND CUBIC ZIRCONIA

What comes to mind when you hear the name "zircon"?

"A cheap diamond substitute in jewelry, synthetic, a scam..."

Hey! The "zircon" you're talking about is actually "synthetic cubic zirconia," not true natural zircon!

Synthetic Cubic Zirconia

"Natural zircon" has been unfairly blamed for years because of its name, which is the abbreviation of "synthetic cubic zirconia," and people often confuse the two. However, natural zircon actually has excellent gemological properties and is a very cost-effective mid-range natural gemstone.

What's the story behind this "natural zircon" that's been misunderstood by its name? Let's learn about this mysterious "scapegoat"!

This "Zircon" is not that "Zircon"

[Natural Zircon]

Natural zircon is the birthstone for December, also known as zircon.

Zircon is one of the oldest minerals formed on Earth; the oldest zircon is recorded to have formed over 4.3 billion years ago.

Zircon is beloved in the jewelry world for its strong luster, high dispersion, and rich colors.

Natural zircon has a dispersion value of 0.038 (diamond has a dispersion value of 0.044). High-cut zircon often appears incredibly bright and firey, much like a diamond.

Natural zircon has a very long history of use in jewelry, dating back to ancient Greece. Its use in Greece and Italy can be traced back to the 6th century AD.

In the Middle Ages, zircon was believed to induce restful sleep, ward off evil spirits, and promote wealth, honor, and wisdom.

Until the early 20th century, before the advent of various diamond simulants, colorless zircon remained an "excellent alternative" to diamonds.

Modern zircon used most commonly in jewelry is primarily colorless, yellow, and light blue zircon.

Very rare zircon can exhibit cat's-eye or color-change effects.

Synthetic Cubic Zirconia

Many people believe that natural zircon is inexpensive, misled by the abbreviation "zircon" for "synthetic cubic zirconia."

This synthetic gemstone, commonly used as a diamond substitute since 1976, is abbreviated as CZ (Cubic Zirconia). It is inexpensive and optically very similar to diamond, possessing high refractive index (2.15), high dispersion (0.060, compared to diamond's 0.044), and high density.

Because the Chinese name for synthetic cubic zirconia is rather awkward, most merchants simplify it to "zircon," but this is not the standard term.

Synthetic cubic zirconia is not only used to imitate white diamonds but can also be produced in various colors. High-end CZ often uses CVD diamond coating to enhance its luster.

The Colors of Natural Zircon

You thought natural zircon was only colorless? Actually, it comes in a variety of colors!

Because of its rich colors, the origin of the English name "zircon" has been controversial. Some scholars believe it comes from the Arabic word "zarkun," meaning "cinnabar." Others believe it originates from the Persian word "zargun," meaning "golden."

The rarest color for zircon is red, followed by pure blue and sky blue, then colorless, orange, brown, and yellow. In terms of market response, blue is the most popular with consumers, while red and green zircon are highly attractive varieties to gem collectors.

Colorless zircon is a common and well-known variety. It sometimes has a grayish tint and is mainly found in Thailand, Vietnam, and Sri Lanka.

Colorless zircon can be naturally occurring or produced by heat treatment of reddish-brown zircon. It was once popular as a natural diamond imitation.

【Blue Zircon】

Blue zircon is a popular variety in the market and commands a higher price than other colors. It can be pure blue, iron blue, sky blue, light blue, or a slightly greenish light blue. Iron blue is the most prized but rare.

Blue zircon was particularly favored by people in the Victorian era.

By the 1920s, due to the market's enthusiasm for blue gemstones, large quantities of light brown zircon were heat-treated to become dazzling blue zircon. The main raw materials for this heat treatment came from the border region between Cambodia and Vietnam.

Red zircon is also known as "hyacinth stone."

In 19th-century Europe, reddish-brown zircon was very popular. In Europe, "hyacinth" and "hyacinth stone" referred to reddish-brown and orange-red stones, and these terms were later applied to the naming of zircon and other minerals with similar colors.

Red zircon comes in various shades, including red, orange-red, and brownish-red, with pure red being the most prized.

It is mainly found in Sri Lanka, Thailand, Cambodia, and France, and is also found in Wenchang, Hainan, China.

【Yellow Zircon】

Yellow is the most common color for zircon, ranging from light yellow to greenish-yellow. Some golden-yellow zircon can be produced through heat treatment.

【Green Zircon】

Green zircon generally leans towards a darker green; pure, bright green zircon is relatively rare.

If zircon was misunderstood due to its name's similarity to "synthetic cubic zirconia," then green zircon is even worse off, suffering further hindrance due to its color.

Why?

Here's a little background information: there are three types of zircon, classified by their degree of crystallinity as high-type, medium-type, and low-type. Gem-quality zircon is almost always high-type. Low-type zircon is nearly amorphous, and even at gem quality, it's usually cloudy with numerous cloud-like inclusions.

Low-type zircon is often dark green, leading people to mistakenly believe that all green zircon is low-type.

In reality, not all green zircon is low-type. Pure, bright, and high-clarity green high-type zircon possesses a unique color within the zircon family and is a favorite among gem collectors.

Zircon Radiation

Many have heard rumors about zircon's radiation, but in reality, we all live in an environment exposed to radiation.

Radiation can be categorized into ionizing radiation and non-ionizing radiation based on its effects. The radiation that people fear is actually more accurately described as ionizing radiation.

The radiation we commonly experience from mobile phones, microwave ovens, infrared radiation, and even the radiation from common gemstones that people worry about, are all low-energy electromagnetic radiation, weaker than the ultraviolet radiation from sunlight.

Natural zircon contains radioactive elements: uranium (U) and thorium (Th), which produces very, very slight ionizing radiation, but poses no threat to health.

Based on the degree of damage to its internal structure caused by radioactive elements, zircon can be classified into high-type, medium-type, and low-type zircon. Jewelry is generally made from medium- to high-type zircon with negligible radioactivity.

Furthermore, gemstones undergo testing before being sold to ensure their radioactivity is below the residual radioactivity exemption value stipulated in national radiation protection regulations.

Wearing a gemstone ring the size of a pigeon egg with radioactivity below the national exemption value results in a cumulative radiation dose in one year equivalent to the effective dose received on your finger during a 10-hour airplane flight.

Wearing and Caring for Natural Zircon Jewelry

While zircon boasts a strong luster, high dispersion, rich colors, and good hardness, it has a fatal weakness—brittleness.

Zircon is extremely brittle; even a slight tap can chip off a corner or cause it to split completely. Furthermore, the faceted edges of zircon are easily damaged, and it can even be damaged by friction and impact with the wrapping paper—a phenomenon often referred to as "paper etching."

Therefore, loose zircon stones should be wrapped in soft paper when packaged; zircon jewelry should be protected from bumps and impacts during daily wear, and when not wearing it, it should be stored separately, not mixed with other jewelry.

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